By Jake Christie for Great Lakes Echo.
Broadcast version by Mike Moen for Minnesota News Connection, reporting for Great Lakes Echo/Solutions Journalism/Public News Service Collaboration.

After 10,000 years of domestication, farming and its popularity for use in bread and beer, wheat could have some competition.

Scientists call it Thinopyrum intermedium. Growers call it Kernza.

One of its biggest advantages?

It's perennial.

Perennial crops require less tilling and fertilizer, and grow back year after year.

Kernza has deep roots and excels at soaking up nitrates in soil and runoff, said Jake Jungers, assistant professor in the department of agronomy at the University of Minnesota. And that helps protect water systems.

Those roots also take carbon out of the air and lock it away in the soil, which helps combat climate change, Jungers said.

The Land Institute is a nonprofit research organization based in Kansas that develops crops and cropping systems that benefit the soil.

The organization has been developing Kernza for about 20 years, trying to improve the wheatgrass so it can be an alternative to wheat, said Tammy Kimbler, director of communications with The Land Institute.

The institute works with several universities and researchers across the United States and worldwide.

The Forever Green Initiative at the University of Minnesota works with Kernza, and 15 other crops to improve crop production.

The initiative took a holistic approach in developing Kernza, thinking about how the plant could benefit farmers and the environment, said Mitch Hunter, associate director of the Forever Green Initiative.

The challenges are significant. Kernza yields only about 20% of the grain wheat does, one of the downfalls of having deep roots, said Prabin Bajgain, an assistant professor in the department of agronomy and plant genetics at the University of Minnesota.

Improving Kernza's yield is a focus of his work, but other traits with strange names like shatter resistance and free threshing ability are just as important, Bajgain said.

Shatter resistance is a seed's resistance to breaking from physical contact, or as part of its lifecycle. Free threshing ability is how easily the plant can be harvested mechanically.

They've had some success in developing those traits, but still have a ways to go in developing yield, Bajgain said.

One technology they're avoiding is genetic modification.

Wheat has a several thousand year head start on Kernza, and genetic modification could help to bridge the gap. But it comes with downsides, Bajgain said.

Negative perceptions of genetically modified organisms could hurt Kernza's introduction into fields and markets, Bajgain said.

"You don't want any negative press, especially when these crops are so new," Bajgain said, "The crops are so diverse, we might not need that right now. If I plant 500 plants of Kernza, each plant looks different from another."

While there's a focus on natural breeding practices, researchers use genetic sequencing technology to speed the selection of plants and to keep desirable traits, Bajgain said.

Kernza has already made its way into a few different markets.

Patagonia Provisions partnered with Dogfish Head Brewery and released a Kernza pilsner in 2022 that's available in stores across the country.

Bang Brewing in St. Paul, Minnesota, started working with Kernza in 2016, said Sandy Boss Febbo, the brewery's co-owner and co-brewer.

From its prefabricated construction, and native prairie and wildflower beer garden, to their use of all organic ingredients, the brewery was built with sustainability in mind, Boss Febbo said. So when they had the chance to brew with Kernza, they jumped on it.

Kernza brings a nuttiness, as well as some spice, to the beers it's used in. But its flavor changes depending on where it's grown, a quirk similar to wine grapes that likely stems from deep roots, Boss Febbo said.

A few other businesses use Kernza across the rest of the country and Kernza flour is available online.

In terms of fighting climate change and producing food, it's not enough to just switch out wheat with Kernza, Hunter said.

Part of the Forever Green Initiative's work is a concept called continuous living cover. That means planting crops so there's always something living in the soil.

"We need to bake conservation right into our cropping system." Hunter said, "Conservation should not be an add-on to the way we grow food, it should be essential."

Using perennials like Kernza with winter annual or perennial crops can increase soil and water health, Hunter said.

The Land Institute hopes Kernza can catch up to wheat in terms of availability and surpass it in economic benefit.

"With the rate of technological advances and the kinds of funding and collaborations that are happening now, it should be able to achieve wheat-like yields in about 15 to 17 years," Kimbler said.

"Which, in plant breeding terms, is remarkably fast."

This story was produced with original reporting from Jake Christie at Great Lakes Echo.



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Working without fanfare, federal scientists at 22 U.S. sites maintain the nation's agricultural plant species collected since 1898, including crops native to New Mexico. But the Trump administration's DOGE agency has fired them. The move creates uncertainly for hundreds of crop species that undergird the country's food system. The U.S. National Plant Germplasm System safeguards the genetic diversity of agriculturally important plants.

Iago Hale, associate professor of specialty crop improvement at the University of New Hampshire, said the potential loss of these "seed bunkers" should alarm every American.

"If you subsist totally on chicken nuggets and KFC, that's fine - understand that that comes back to plants grown in the field. The breading on your fried chicken, the French fries that you're eating - these are all products of crops, and this is how it works," he said.

A court order has temporarily reinstated some of the 300 NPGS scientists, but it's unclear when their work will resume - putting 600,000 genetic lines of some 200 crop species in jeopardy. New Mexico's pinto beans, jujube and ornamental species are included in the crop research and improvement dataset historically housed through the NPGS.

Hale said the NPGS is central to the nation's preparedness, because the food system is only as safe as our ability to respond to the next plant disease. Unless dormant seeds are continually cared for and periodically replanted, Hale noted the lines will die, along with their evolutionary history. Hale said potatoes, the fourth-largest crop, require even more care than wheat or corn.

"They're not maintained as seed, they're maintained as potatoes - it's a clonally propagated crop, and there is no long-term storage for those things. So, the nation's entire potato collection has to be grown out every year - has to be regenerated every year, without fail, or it will die. And the potato season has been disrupted," he explained.

Hale said apples also must be maintained as living plants in the open field and scientists follow strict requirements to sustain genetic purity. In the 1980s, he notes, scientists at a gene bank in New York helped identify genetic traits that made apples resistant to several destructive diseases, including deadly fire blight.


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Missouri ranks second in the nation for the number of farms, with more than 85,000.

Beginning farmers in the state and across the nation may soon get a boost from Washington. Beginning farmers are defined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as those who have farmed for 10 years or fewer.

The bipartisan "New Producer Economic Security Act," recently introduced in Congress, proposes a USDA pilot program to help new farmers overcome key challenges such as securing land, funding operations and accessing markets. Between 2017 and 2022, Missouri saw an almost 8% drop in farmland, making it harder for young farmers to get started.

Nicholas Rossi, policy specialist for the National Sustainable Agriculture Coalition, explained the looming changes in the agricultural industry.

"The average age of a farmer in the United States is 58 years old, I think a little above 58 years old," Rossi pointed out. "We see in the next couple of years there's going to be one of the largest transfers of agricultural land this country's seen in a long time."

The program could fund low- or no-interest loans, land-access grants and community-ownership models such as land trusts and co-ops.

Nationally, the 2022 Census of Agriculture showed beginning farmers make up 30% of the country's more than 3 million farmers, an increase from just over 26% in 2017.

The stakes are high when it comes to who gains access to farmland in the years ahead, Rossi emphasized.

"A lot of that land that's transferred is either going to go and just continue to make the biggest farms bigger, or it can go towards this next generation of farmers," Rossi stressed. "We can hope we try and reverse that trend of decreasing amount of family farms in the U.S., and also looking at decreasing the average age of farmers in the United States."

Statistics show states along the East and West coasts had a high share of farms with beginning producers compared with farms in the Midwest. Rossi hopes to see the pilot program become a permanent part of the comprehensive Farm Bill.


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West Virginians are more concerned about bird flu's effect on grocery costs rather than health implications, and Republican voters are more likely to distrust Centers for Disease Control and Prevention information about the virus, according to a new poll from the health policy research and news organization KFF.

Nearly nine in 10 adults across parties, race and ethnicity, and household income levels are "very" or "somewhat" concerned bird flu will increase the cost of food in the U.S.

Audrey Kearney, senior survey analyst for KFF, said rising economic pressure has households more worried about paying for housing, gas, transportation and everyday expenses.

"We found that only half of the public said that they are really hearing a lot about bird flu on a day-to-day basis," Kearney reported. "It might not be resonating in the way of health but it definitely is resonating in when they go grocery shopping."

Since 2022, officials have identified just two backyard flocks, around 260 birds, in the state affected by the virus. Earlier this year, the West Virginia Department of Agriculture issued a suspension on all poultry exhibitions and sales statewide, calling the move a precautionary measure.

Kearney added one of the biggest takeaways from the data is Americans now have different levels of trust between community experts they are interacting with on a daily basis, and major institutions.

"Messages from people's doctors are going to be the most well received and probably the most effective on that front," Kearney explained.

Currently, the CDC recommends people avoid close contact with sick animals and avoid unpasteurized milk products as precautions against bird flu, while eggs purchased from grocery stores are considered safe.

Since April 2024, 70 human cases of bird flu have been reported in the U.S. Of those, 41 cases were associated with exposure to sick dairy cows and 26 were associated with exposure to poultry.


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