By Anne Marshall-Chalmers for Civil Eats.
Broadcast version by Suzanne Potter for California News Service reporting for the Solutions Journalism Network-Public News Service Collaboration
More than 20 years ago, Craig McNamara started planting woody vegetation on his family’s farm, west of Sacramento, California. McNamara was an early organic pioneer in the region, and he prioritized weaving nature into the agricultural landscape at a time when it was far from popular. Native shrubs and trees lined a creek that ran through the walnut farm. Plants became boundaries between orchards and row crops—i.e., hedgerows—and it didn’t take long for the 450-acre organic farm to come “alive,” says Craig’s son, Sean McNamara, who joined the operation in 2014. Bees, owls, ladybugs, and many other creatures still routinely visit the farm. Just a few weeks ago, a bobcat strolled through the bushes along the creek.
These above-ground benefits to hedgerows are easy to spot. But a few years ago, McNamara watched as a soil scientist dug into the dirt surrounding them. She scooped up rich, dark, compacted soil, mycelial strands tangled within. “I think we were in the middle of summer and the soil, even the topsoil, was moist,” he recalls. It was a memorable sight in drought-riddled California.
That scientist, Jessica Chiartas, was studying the soil around hedgerows. She selected a couple dozen farms in the Sacramento Valley, an area with plenty of well-established hedgerows thanks to a campaign initiated more than 20 years ago that sought to bring native vegetation back to local farms.
Chiartas’ study, published in late 2022, found that no matter the soil type, be it loam or clay, the soil below hedgerows stored significantly more carbon than the soil in the adjacent agricultural fields. While most of that carbon remained on the surface layer, an increase in soil carbon was detected down to the depth of 1 meter—where it’s more likely to remain. In fact, the study concludes that installing hedgerows on 50 to 80 percent of California’s farmland would capture so much carbon, it would help the state to reach up to 12 percent of its ambitious greenhouse gas reduction goals.
California farmers, who are contending with drought, flooding, and a long list of pests that can ruin fruits, nuts, and vegetables haven’t fully embraced planting native vegetation adjacent to fields. But as the state encourages and incentivizes climate-friendly agriculture practices, they might just start.
Hedgerows are straightforward strips of shrubs or trees roughly 15 feet wide, but they highlight nature’s complex work, says Chiartas. At the surface of the soil around them, “you have a buildup of litter: leaves, stems, dead insects, feces, whatever organic materials are deposited,” she explains. When it rains, the organic matter dissolves and moves deeper into the soil profile. That “litter layer” also protects soil temperature and moisture, creating a stable, thriving soil food web that pulls organic materials deeper into the ground. “We’re not fighting biology,” she says. “It’s efficient.”
Recognizing that, the USDA’s Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) offers a program to farmers nationwide that provides technical assistance and some funding for hedgerow planting, and Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation has also focused on the expansion of pollinator habitat, including hedgerows. Individual states including Minnesota and Iowa have also encouraged the planting of native vegetation in the form of prairie strips.
Chiartas jokes that she’d like to start a campaign to “re-hedge California.” With millions of agricultural acres, she sees potential in otherwise long stretches of empty perimeter. “All these field edges are bare right now,” Chiartas says, adding that because hedgerows stay in place, the carbon benefits would last well into the future. “It’s a proxy for the potential of agroforestry,” she says. “We need shade in California. Not just for carbon sequestration but for farm laborers.”
During her research, growers told Chiartas farmworkers often gravitate toward the rows of native plants, including California redbud, Manzanita, or Blue Elderberry trees for a break. And she, along with others who prioritize conservation, applaud a farm system that can expand its scope beyond merely growing food to creating space for all living things.
A Woody History
Hedgerows have been planted in farming and rural landscapes for thousands of years. According to Sam Earnshaw, a longtime sustainable farming advocate who helps growers establish hedgerows through NRCS, ancient hedgerows drew property lines, confined livestock, created windbreaks, and even provided food and medicine. The industrialization of farmland in Great Britain, though, led to the removal of about 200,000 miles of hedgerows between the late 1940s and early 1990s.
In the U.S., efforts to introduce natural vegetation to agricultural land took a “huge hit,” Earnshaw says, in 2006, the year a serious E. coli outbreak was linked to fresh spinach grown in California’s central coast region. The outbreak sickened more than 200 people and caused three deaths.
“Since then, there has been tons of pressure on growers to do everything they can to keep wildlife off of their fields,” explains Daniel Karp, an associate professor at U.C. Davis in the Department of Wildlife, Fish, and Conservation Biology. “So, that’s meant killing all kinds of wildlife—putting out snap traps and rodenticides along field edges to kill off rodents.” It also often meant removing hedgerows.
Although a USDA investigation wasn’t able to definitively determine how E. coli wound up in bags of baby spinach, the outbreak strain was linked to specific fields where river water, cattle feces, and wild-pig feces all contained the bacteria. A grass-fed cattle operation was located on the ranch, less than a mile from the spinach field.
In the five years following the outbreak, a study found that 13 percent of the plants and trees growing along rivers in one of California’s leading produce-growing regions were eliminated out of fear that they would provide habitat for wildlife carrying pathogens. And a few years later, Karp says, a survey of California produce growers found that 40 percent were still removing habitat even a decade later.
Karp says it’s an understandable, albeit misguided, practice. A 2015 study co-authored by Karp found that, contrary to popular assumptions, the clearing of vegetation has been associated with increased prevalence of foodborne pathogens over time. “Shrubs, grasses, and trees (are) a well-known filter for nutrients and pathogens,” says Karp. “So, you might be able to prevent [pathogens] from getting onto your farm field by having those buffers.”
Karp’s research has also found that smaller, more diverse operations tend to attract species of birds that are less likely to carry foodborne pathogens, unlike monoculture operations that are more likely to have flocking birds that can deposit potentially harmful bacteria on produce.
Karp says many growers he speaks with acknowledge the benefits of hedgerows or riparian habitat, but companies who buy fresh produce often won’t engage with growers who have incorporated plants and wildlife into their operations.
This, says Chiartas, has led to a “scorched earth” mentality for those who grow produce that’s consumed raw. Karp notes, however, that the Food Safety Modernization Act signed into law in 2011 does not advise removing habitat. “The leverage point is definitely going to be big industry buyers and their auditors, and to really convince these folks that the science doesn’t support this idea that habitat removal is effective,” says Karp.
That Bustle in Your Hedgerow? Biodiversity.
About 30 years ago, Rachael Long, a farm advisor with the U.C. Agriculture and Natural Resources (ANR) began preaching the power of hedgerows to farmers in the Sacramento Valley. She eventually followed her own advice and planted a half-mile stretch of redbud, coyote brush, toyon, and other native California species at the edge of her tomato and wheat farm.
Years later, she delights in walking past the various flowering plants. Doves and white-tailed kites sing. Come fall, her coyote bush hums with bees, flies, and other insects. Research shows native vegetation attract critters that can help devour pests harmful to crops. For example, a recent study showed that walnut orchards with hedgerows or riparian edges had more avian predators, like the white-breasted nuthatch and woodpeckers, gobbling up harmful codling moths, than orchards with only weeds growing. The more natural, woody vegetation, the more moth consumption occurred.
Long says that while many farmers have resisted planting hedgerows on their land out of fear the trees and shrubs would only draw harmful pests, studies have shown the opposite to be true. Several years ago, she and other researchers collected bugs in hedgerows during growing seasons over two years and found that 78 percent of the insects were beneficial, while only 22 percent were considered pests. “Hedgerows do bring in more natural enemies like ladybugs and parasitoid wasps that do move into adjacent crops,” she says. Her research has also shown that farmers who have hedgerows don’t have to spray as many insecticides as those farmers who have no habitat around their farm.
Insect biodiversity can also encourage more effective pollination in orchards, Long says, because more wild bees throw honeybees off their vertical, methodical paths. “The honeybee will kind of forget what it’s doing, and it will cross over rows; you get better pollination that way.”
Though establishing hedgerows can cost thousands of dollars, and, at least in the first few years, requires a dedicated water source (a big deal in parched California), Long’s research has found that once the habitat is established, the pollination and pest control that’s provided result in a return on investment that lasts between seven to 16 years.
The Importance of Incentives
In an effort to encourage growers to plant native vegetation, ANR is leading a project that’s exploring the potential for a commercial market for elderberry plants as hedgerows. And the state’s Healthy Soils Program (HSP) offers grants to fund a variety of climate-friendly agricultural practices, including planting hedgerows. Over the last five years, compost application has proven to be the most popular, making up about 70 percent of the incentive grants, while only 16 percent of funding has gone to hedgerows.
Judith Redmond is one several founders of Full Belly Farm, 50 miles northwest of Sacramento; she and her co-founders have been using regenerative, organic farming practices for nearly 40 years. She’d like HSP to push hedgerows as a more attractive option, particularly in terms of carbon sequestration, even though planting them can be more labor intensive in the short-term than applying compost. “Compost has to be trucked around. It might not be as beneficial as hedgerows or cover crops,” she says.
Still, the HSP grants have enticed conventional and organic growers like Don Cameron, vice president and general manager of Terranova Ranch, a large, mostly conventional ag operation outside of Fresno that grows processing tomatoes, carrots, onions, nuts, and other crops, planted a half-mile hedgerow three years ago with an HSP grant.
Cameron has since noticed the presence of wild pollinators, as well as “hummingbirds all year,” he says, and around the hedgerows there’s stability in his otherwise sandy soil. “What we’ve found where we’ve done it is that we have no erosion,” he says. “There’s a lot of erosion without habitat established.”
Since receiving the grant, he’s worked with NRCS and other organizations to plant about two more miles of hedgerows. And he plans to put in another seven miles with funding help from the large companies he sells his produce to, including Nestlé. “We’re seeing major food companies wanting to promote increased sustainability on farms,” he says.
Cameron is well-known in California, particularly for his work around on-farm water recharge. He says that in a stretch of the San Joaquin Valley that is often dusty and void of natural vegetation, his hedgerows have gained attention. Other growers have taken notice and they’re curious about the more than 20 plant varieties that bloom around his crops.
If it works, this type of farmer-to-farmer education may help the state achieve Chiartas’ goal of re-hedging California and pulling more carbon into the soil at the same time. For now, though, Cameron can’t ignore the simple pleasure that comes from simply growing a wider array of plants. Hedgerows are “aesthetically pleasing,” he says. “I like that.”
Anne Marshall-Chalmers wrote this article for Civil Eats.
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By Naoki Nitta for Civil Eats.
Broadcast version by Suzanne Potter for California News Service reporting for the Solutions Journalism Network-Public News Service Collaboration
It's no wonder that hospital food gets a bad rap, says Santana Diaz, executive chef at the University of California Davis Medical Center, a sprawling, 142-acre campus located in Sacramento, California. As a seeming compromise between nutrition and institutional efficiency, food has long been dished up as an afterthought to patient care. “That was never the focus of hospitals,” he adds.
But for Diaz, good food is key to good health. Since taking the helm of the facility’s nutrition and dining services in 2018, he has worked to revamp the cuisine, including sourcing almost half of ingredients from farms and ranches within a 250-mile radius of the Sacramento Valley. Food grown in local fields, orchards, and pastures with healthy soil management practices simply make for healthier, more nutritious, and more flavorful meals, he says—the perfect ingredients for changing the “stigma” associated with hospital fare.
Diaz is not alone in making this shift, but he may be ahead of the game. In 2022, the University of California (U.C.) system—a network of 10 campuses and five medical centers—committed to supporting regenerative farming as part of U.C. President Michael Drake’s vision to mitigate the effects of climate change and drive a more equitable food system. And as an advisor to an initiative lead by the nonprofit organization Roots of Change, Diaz is helping to steer the larger institution toward local agriculture—through the system-wide procurement of regeneratively ranched beef.
The term, a general reference to pasture management that prioritizes soil health and perennial plants by grazing livestock through rotated paddocks, encompasses a set of practices that advocates say results in healthier animals and pastures. Research also shows that beef from cattle raised strictly on grass is more nutritious than conventional beef, although it’s not yet clear how regenerative practices may impact those findings.
Cumulatively, the U.C. dining system serves more than 600,000 meals a day during the academic year. By ensuring reliable demand for regeneratively raised meat, proponents of the system’s new procurement pledge see the sizable volume giving the state’s independent ranchers and rural economy a huge boost, and bolstering the local and regional meat supply chain.
It’s a tall order, but Diaz knows the sway that comes with institutional demand. The former executive chef at the Sacramento Kings’ Golden 1 Center and the San Francisco 49ers’ Levi’s Stadium is also a founding member of Beef2Institution, a non-profit program helping K-12 schools, hospitals, and sports venues in California source beef from local, family-owned ranches.
Institutions are the perfect outlet, says Diaz, for ground, braising, and stewing meat and the other lower-value, secondary cuts that make up nearly two-thirds of every beef carcass. So featuring hamburgers, boneless short ribs, and carne asada as part of a local farm-to-fork menu offers nearby ranchers a prime bread-and-butter opportunity, he says—all the while exposing a captive audience to the value of beef raised on regenerative pasture.
“Obviously, we’re not going to change patient behavior . . . in [one] hospital stay,” Diaz notes. But because diet plays a major role in raising the risk of heart disease, diabetes, and other chronic conditions, there’s huge merit, he adds, in educating them about preventative and nutritional approaches to health management.
And with his kitchen alone churning out 6,500 meals a day—along with patients, the medical center feeds an army of clinicians, staff, and medical and nursing students—the appetite of the entire U.C. system will likely have a resounding impact on the larger beef market in the state. “That’s how institutions can flex their buying power,” Diaz says.
A Premium Product
Despite research showing that eating less beef has significant health and environmental benefits, including shrinking an individual’s carbon footprint by as much as 75 percent, America’s steak and burger consumption is on the rise.
Currently, the vast majority of U.S. beef comes from cows raised on pasture for about the first year of their lives, then moved to concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs)—large-scale industrial facilities that grain-finish cattle in confinement for six to eight months before slaughter. Along with concentrated levels of environmental pollution, critics deride beef feedlots as places where hundreds if not thousands of cattle are crowded together. These conditions typically require antibiotics to prevent herds from getting sick; subsequently, this “subtherapeutic” use has also been linked to antibiotic resistance.
Nevertheless, CAFOs are also the basis of a “hyper-efficient” commodity system, says Renee Cheung, managing partner at Bonterra Partners, an impact investment advisory firm for regenerative agriculture and co-author of a market analysis of grass-fed beef. These operations pump out a consistent, year-round supply of beef for the meatpacking industry, a sector dominated by a handful of multinational giants that control more than 80 percent of the country’s beef market.
Grazing cattle on pasture for the entirety of their lives, on the other hand, is far less productive. As such, strictly grass-fed or grass-finished operations tend to be modest in scale, says Cheung, with the majority of ranches in the U.S. herding around 50 heads. The smaller volumes and seasonality of pastures create more variability in slaughter weight and harvest windows, running counter to the conventional year-round commodity model.
As a result, non-CAFO operations don’t benefit from the economy of scale built into the heavily consolidated processing and marketing infrastructure, Cheung says. With limited access to centralized meatpacking facilities, these producers are often saddled with high overhead for transport, cold storage, and market delivery—all of which add to premium prices at the meat counter.
The cost, however, also reflects a more superior product. Compared to conventionally raised beef, studies show that strictly pasture-fed beef contain higher nutrients with less fat, often with lower levels of antibiotics, hormones, and risk of food contamination. And grass-fed cuts simply taste better, according to Chef Dan Barber, sustainable and ethical farming advocate and author of The Third Plate, who extols its rich, complex, and “undeniably beefy” flavor.
Not all pasture-based ranchers have adopted paddock-based regenerative practices, but the number appears to be growing. That’s in part because the holistic principles of regenerative ranching go hand in hand with land stewardship and animal welfare, says Michael Dimock, executive director of Roots of Change. By “mimicking nature,” the grazing patterns of ruminants benefit from natural forage and room to roam, all the while “maximizing soil health and biodiversity” of plants, insects, and other animals.
Regardless, recent research shows that 100 percent grass-fed cattle have a larger carbon footprint than those finished on grain because they fatten at a slower rate, yet also weigh as much as 20 percent less at maturity. And while regeneratively managed pastures have been shown to sequester carbon, the science behind the potential for “carbon-neutral beef” has been overblown. Still, Dimock adds that well-managed, rotational grazing enhances pasture productivity, helps restore spent cropland, and prevents wildfires by keeping invasive grasses and dry brush in check.
It’s also a highly efficient use of marginal land, notes Dimock—a classification of the 70 percent of the world’s arable regions unsuited for crop production due to poor soil, aridity, or steepness. As he sees it, regenerative ranching is also accessible and practical for smaller operations because it’s scalable, and lowers the financial risks associated with compliance-centered practices like organic farming.
The Power of Procurement
Making regenerative beef a more attainable business model requires developing a resilient supply chain, says Dimock, one that caters primarily to smaller producers. The COVID-19 pandemic exposed the vulnerabilities of a heavily consolidated industry, including bottlenecks in meat processing due to labor shortages and transportation breakdowns. Along with the USDA’s recent $1 billion investment in expanding the nation’s meat and poultry processing capacity, he sees California’s $600 million Community Economic Resilience Fund (CERF) giving a major boost to the state’s meat supply infrastructure.
The targeted funding includes shoring up the network of smaller, regional harvest, processing, and storage facilities, he adds, and will help rural communities develop stronger economic hubs that decentralize the current top-heavy model. But those new and expanded facilities won’t succeed if there isn’t a consistent market for the kind of meat they process.
“If we want to give small-scale ranchers a fair shot,” Dimock says, “we have to break up [the current corporate stronghold].”
Going up against the commodity system, however, comes with additional challenges. While grass-fed beef accounts for roughly $4 billion, or 4 percent of the overall U.S. market, an estimated 80 percent of the supply consists of imports, largely from Australia, Uruguay and Brazil—countries where raising livestock on pasture is far more economical. Passed through a USDA-inspected plant, these products can be labeled “domestic,” leaving true domestic producers at an economic disadvantage.
In fact, the general lack of standards and regulations for the grass-fed sector has created a Wild West landscape of labels, says Bonterra’s Cheung. For its part, the USDA has recently announced stepping up its labeling guidelines, which distinguish true grass-fed beef from confusing claims such as “pasture-raised,” “50 percent grass-fed,” and “grass-fed and grain-finished.” These are highly misleading terms, she notes, given that most cattle are pastured for the first year of their lives. And “there has been a lot of outright cheating in the industry,” she adds—for instance, grass-fed labels can still apply to confined cattle raised on grass pellets.
The fundamental practices of regenerative ranching align with California’s efforts to promote farming “in a manner that restores and maintains natural systems,” says California Department of Food and Agriculture (CDFA) Secretary Karen Ross. The approach also complements the state’s climate smart initiatives and efforts to advance social equity through the support of small-scale farms and ranches.
Still, Ross acknowledges that the term’s inherent flexibility can make it a fuzzy concept. That’s especially true in California, where regional variations in microclimates, precipitation levels, and soil structure reflect a wide practice spectrum—some ranches in the state’s mountainous reaches, for example, may winter their herds on dried silage when fields are bare, while others may have the means to transport them to greener pastures.
“If you talk to 12 people about regenerative [practices], you’ll get 12 different definitions,” Ross says.
Currently, several certifications such as the American Grassfed Association (AGA), Regenerative Organic Certified, and Land to Market provide a range of overlapping criteria that ensure the regenerative provenance of meat. By outlining transparent measures, these voluntary labels are intended to legitimize and safeguard the premium nature of regeneratively produced beef.
Last month, the CDFA began work on officially defining regenerative ranching and agriculture. Rather than developing standards for state certification, and the goal is “to make sure that when we use the term, we have a shared understanding of what the practices are,” says Ross. The “inclusive” set of parameters will help inform state policy around regenerative food production, she adds—including public procurement initiatives.
Public institutions are “a ready-made way” to spur and ensure market demand for healthy food from sustainable sources, adds Ross, who has been involved in discussions about the UC initiative. “We’re investing in better outcomes for farmers, the community, and the environment,” she says. “That’s the power of procurement.”
Building the Supply Pipeline
Balancing supply and demand is nonetheless a delicate endeavor, says Tom Richards, co-owner of Richards Grassfed Beef in Yuba County, California. The fifth-generation rancher has been a key voice in both the UC initiative and Beef2Institution.
Most of California’s pasture-grazing operations focus on a premium, direct-to-consumer market. Between online sales, farmers markets, restaurants, and specialty retailers, year-to-year demand tends to be stable—and manageable.
The supply of better beef “isn’t something you can just dial up,” says Richards. Increasing herds is a risky investment—“it takes three years to raise one of these animals,” he notes—so clear market forecasts are imperative. “The biggest thing that we need from the industry is for somebody like a Santana [Diaz] or UC to say, ‘we’re committed to [helping you] map out a three- to five-year plan to grow your supply,’” he says.
“Right now, the market’s operating on a push,” Richards adds. “But what the industry needs is the pull”—with heavy strings attached.
For smaller-scale operations in particular, committed relationships all along the supply chain are essential to staying afloat. Yet that business model runs counter to industry approach, says Clifford Pollard, the founder of Cream Co. Meats. The Oakland, California-based meat processor “bridges the gap” between regenerative ranches and broadline product distribution on the West Coast, and has played a central role in promoting Beef2Institution’s efforts.
Conventional meat processors “trade in commodities,” Pollard says, sourcing raw material at the lowest price possible. Cream Co., on the other hand, cultivates its supply pipeline “over many years of sustained [purchasing] commitments” to individual operations, he says.
Ultimately, with demand driving supply, the large-scale procurement will undoubtedly influence the equation. Nevertheless, even incremental steps by institutions can pave the way for meaningful change, Pollard notes. “There’s often a hesitation that it has to be all or nothing, but shifting even a small portion of your spend towards [regeneratively minded sourcing] is impactful,” he says, and U.C.’s commitment really gives regenerative producers “a seat at the table.”
“We don’t need the whole table,” Pollard adds. “Just a seat.”
Naoki Nitta wrote this article for Civil Eats.
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The chair of the Federal Trade Commission will be in rural Iowa this weekend to hear from farmers and other residents about the proposed sale of Iowa Fertilizer to Koch Industries.
The sale is pending FTC approval. Iowa spent $500 million to build an Iowa Fertilizer factory in Weverly to create competition in an already consolidated industry.
Aaron Lehman, president of the Iowa Farmers Union, said he plans to tell FTC Chair Linda Khan a sale to Koch Industries would backtrack on any competitive progress the state has made.
"Our concern is that an industry that already lacks competition and has all sorts of monopoly problems would only get worse if this sale is allowed to go through," Lehman explained.
Koch and other corporate ag conglomerates have said consolidating allows them to provide better products to farmers more efficiently. The hearing is set for Saturday on Main Street in Nevada.
In addition to reducing competition for fertilizer, Lehman argued the sale would increase prices for farmers, and ultimately mean higher food prices for Iowans. He wants Khan to hear stories firsthand, from the people on the ground in Nevada.
"We know that we might not be able to have a dialogue with the people who are investigating this situation, because they need to be impartial," Lehman acknowledged. "But our farmers need to tell their story about how the industry is already in a monopoly state."
Some 18 other ag organizations have joined the Iowa Farmers Union calling on the FTC and the Justice Department to investigate the proposed sale.
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A farm group is helping Iowa agriculture producers find ways to reduce the amount of nitrogen they use on their crops.
Excess nitrates can wind up in ground and surface water, and cause health problems.
Practical Farmers of Iowa is encouraging farmers to find just the right amount of nitrogen they need for their crops - while avoiding applying too much, which the group says is common.
PFI's Field Crops Viability Coordinator - Chelsea Ferrie - said thanks to federal grants and private funding, the group will pay farmers up to $35 for every acre that has a lower than normal yield if they didn't apply enough nitrogen.
"No cost to the farmer, either," said Ferrie. "We're trying to help incentivize them. This is something that farmers want to do - I mean, they want to be good stewards of the land - but also, that they need to have a profitable farm."
The application period for the program is open through the end of April.
To help them reach the right nitrogen balance, Ferrie said PFI will help farmers on the front end of the process, too - so they aren't left guessing how much to apply.
"Talk through what your typical fertilizer plan is, and what your reduction plan would be," said Ferrie. "Then you would implement this year, going into the spring and into the season."
Farmers have relied on nitrogen-based fertilizers for generations - but when applied in excess, nitrates run off into ground and surface water, posing health concerns for animals and people.
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