By Gabriella Sotelo for Sentient.
Broadcast version by Suzanne Potter for California News Service reporting for the Sentient-Public News Service Collaboration
California is known throughout the country for its fruit and vegetable bounty. The golden state produces more than 40 percent of the vegetables we eat and 75 percent of its fruits and nuts. But the state has also struggled with deadly outbreaks of the E. coli pathogen on many of its produce farms - romaine lettuce and walnuts are two recent examples. When outbreaks happen, investigators work round the clock to trace the outbreak, sometimes leading back to contaminated water used to irrigate crops.
Yet exactly where the pathogen comes from originally can be harder to pinpoint. A new report from the Environmental Working Group adds some important data points. Researchers mapped 1,062 industrial meat and dairy operations in the state, and found a worrying 93 percent were located within a mile of a water source for irrigating fresh produce. What's more, 42 percent of the meat and dairy operations mapped - close to half - were found even closer: within a quarter of a mile of a waterway used for irrigation.
California is a leading producer of dairy, as well as beef. The more than one thousand concentrated animal feeding operations, called CAFOs, mapped by EWG house 76.8 million farm animals at any given time.
This many millions of farm animals produce a massive amount of manure, some of which inevitably carries dangerous pathogens like E. coli or salmonella. The bacteria then spreads, traveling through the air in the form of dust, which can settle anywhere, including irrigation canals.
Once in the canal water, pathogens travel right along with it. "If canal water is contaminated with pathogens, there is the risk to pass the pathogens to farms or the produce in the farm," Xiaohong Wei, a researcher at University of California, Davis, who was not involved with the study, told Sentient by email. "It could cause outbreaks and consumers [can] get sick...Especially while consuming the raw produce."
Typically, multiple livestock operations are clustered in close proximity to each other and a waterway, Ethan Bahe, a data analyst at EWG and an author of the report, tells Sentient. "These irrigation canals are a spiderweb," he says. "They go by multiple facilities," which makes tracing any foodborne illness outbreak back to one meat or dairy operation close to impossible.
Besides the waterways, there are also 2.6 million acres of crop fields that are located within a three mile radius of a CAFO, the report found, many of which - 60 percent - are where fruits and vegetables are planted, rather than feed crops, for instance.
On one farm, Bahe says he discovered that only a driveway appeared to separate the feedlot and the canal. And there was no berm - the raised strip of ground often found near waterways - or any other type of protection to stop contaminants from leaking into the water.
EWG researchers say the risk of contamination increases the closer a CAFO is to a body of water. Researchers for the U.S. Food and Drug Administration reached a similar conclusion: more samples of dust contained E.coli when in closer proximity to livestock operations.
Stressed and unhealthy livestock - a staple of industrial meat and dairy operations - are far more prone to spreading pathogens than their healthier counterparts, according to University of Minnesota researchers.
Yet the EPA inspects just a fraction of these operations. According to a report from the Natural Resources Defense Council, the EPA inspected just 0.6 percent of all CAFOs in 2017, for instance.
CAFOs, despite being required to obtain permits under the Clean Water Act for discharging pollutants into waterways, are not required to treat animal manure, unlike human waste. The EPA largely relies on self-reporting, which enables CAFOs to self assess and decide whether they need a permit to pollute.
Consumers can't see whether produce is contaminated, says Kerry Hamilton, a professor at Arizona State University with a background in microbial risk assessment.
While there are steps consumers can take to minimize risk, including washing produce thoroughly, The Environmental Working Group's position is that stronger protection for consumers is urgently needed at the policy level.
"What we're really hoping to call attention to here is the need for policy change," says Sarah Graddy, a senior communications director with EWG. There is an urgent need, she says, "to hold these polluters accountable for the contamination they're introducing into waterways."
Gabriella Sotelo wrote this article for Sentient.
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October is National Farm to School Month, and New York schools are using grant funding to participate.
School districts statewide have received funding from the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Local Food for Schools program. These grants allow schools to buy food directly from local or regional farmers, so kids have nutritious meals.
Jenny Lester Moffitt, undersecretary for marketing and regulatory programs at the USDA, said this program allows farmers to get more of the "food dollar" back by selling their wares directly.
"So traditionally, a farmer gives about 14 cents of every food dollar back to their farming operation," she said. "But when farmers can sell locally, direct to their community, selling direct to their schools, more of the food dollar comes back to their farm."
She said it also provides them with a reliable and stable place to sell their products.
This year, New York school districts received more than $700,000 in grant funding from the Patrick Leahy Farm to School program. Lester Moffitt noted that a future goal is to expand the program.
This week, the USDA announced an additional $500 million for the grants, with another $200 million for child-care facilities to purchase directly from farms.
Feedback about the program has been positive from farmers and schools. From speaking with food producers, Lester Moffitt said it's been a safety net for them, especially those who have lost other local or international markets. Despite its benefits, she said, there are some challenges for farmers.
"There are barriers, especially if you're a small producer; if you're a producer that has one product to be able to sell directly to schools in the neighborhood and into the region," she said. "Farmers are often very busy farming and harvesting, and don't have a lot of time to be able to make all those different phone calls and deliver products."
Funds are also provided for farmers and schools to overcome these barriers. One solution is an aggregation system, where farmers can bring their products to one location to be distributed to different schools.
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A new report looking at agribusiness consolidation found decades of mergers have reduced competition, leading to higher costs for farmers and consumers in Maryland and nationwide.
The report, titled "Kings Over the Necessaries of Life," showed a smaller number of large companies are using their market power to dominate nearly all sectors of the food system from inputs such as seeds and pesticides all the way to grocers.
Basel Musharbash, principal attorney for the Antimonopoly Counsel and the report's author, said the nonenforcement of the nation's antimonopoly laws since the 1980s has taken a toll.
"We found that either a single firm or a small, tightly coordinated group of firms have amassed monopoly power," Musharbash explained. "The power to control prices or exclude competitors from a given market, in nearly every major industry that manufactures and sells farm inputs, that buys or processes farm crops, or that distributes food to the public."
Among other abuses, the report found companies have engineered shortages to keep prices high, as in the egg and fertilizer sectors. Despite rising prices for beef, consolidation has reduced the share of the consumer's dollar going to cattle farmers, which fell from 70% in the 1970s to 30% today.
The fertilizer sector has been gradually consolidated over decades, and the report showed three large firms are now in control. With one dominating the market for each of the three primary components of fertilizer: nitrogen, phosphate and potassium. The so-called Big Three are able to control prices in their respective markets but are also keeping competition out by controlling access to both the raw materials supply and the specialized distributors that sell fertilizer around the country.
The report found since the 1990s, the Big Three have raised fertilizer prices, cut output and reduced the quality and selection of fertilizer available in the U.S. Fertilizer prices increased 60% in 2021 and 132% the next year. Companies attributed the increases to supply-chain problems, but Musharbash found their own financial reports proved otherwise. He argued it amounts to extraction from farmers and ultimately, consumers.
"Because of their power, they've been able to reap Apple-style profits on products that haven't been improved materially since the 1960s," Musharbash asserted. "It's that sort of extraction that has been facilitated by the monopolization that we've seen across the agriculture sector."
The report includes an Agriculture Consolidation Data Hub where different sectors are outlined. Consolidation and its effects are tracked in agricultural finance, crop insurance, farm machinery, the grain and oilseed sector, along with fruits, vegetables, livestock, poultry, seed and fertilizer. The seed industry is now dominated by four large firms and has seen prices rise faster over the past 20 years than any other farm input.
Musharbash argued the nation needs to continue to expand recent efforts to enforce antitrust laws.
"It doesn't have to be this way," Musharbash contended. "These firms are smart and powerful. They've executed strategies over decades, the U.S. government allowed it because we made policy decisions not to enforce the antitrust laws to the fullest extent. We can take action to fix that."
He added after a period of neglect, the agriculture sector was also highly concentrated by the 1930s. But the report outlined how over a decade the Antitrust Division of the Justice Department and the Federal Trade Commission brought thousands of cases against cartel actors in the agricultural economy, eventually restoring competitive markets.
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Advocates for a fair, sustainable, and healthy food system have released a report showing that nearly all of the corn seed in Iowa is controlled by just four companies.
Economists say concentrations that large can lead to market manipulation.
Farm Action's report shows nearly 90% of the corn seed in Iowa is controlled by Corteva and Bayer. AgReliant and Syngenta control the rest.
Farm Action President Angela Huffman said that kind of control and concentration is happening all the way from seeds to the consumer's plate, and she warns it makes market conditions ripe for abuse.
"This is the scenario in almost every sector of the food supply chain," said Huffman. "Seeds, fertilizer, farm equipment - beef, pork, and poultry processing - and retail groceries. Every one of those sectors I just named has upwards of 60%, to even 85%, of those markets controlled by four corporations."
The same type of consolidation is happening in ag operations where livestock are raised in large confinements - and manure runoff is known to damage the air, ground, and surface water in rural Iowa.
Operators have said they're always looking for more efficient and environmentally friendly ways to raise livestock.
Huffman argued that monopolies like this can lead to collusion, price fixing, and other types of market manipulation.
She and other advocates have called on lawmakers in Congress to address the issue in the pending Farm Bill.
"We're calling on the government to reclaim its role as an enforcer of our antitrust laws, and break up these dominant corporations," said Huffman, "in order to free our economy to start working for the people who are producing, processing and distributing our food."
The current Farm Bill, which was supposed to expire in September of last year, has been extended - but debate still hasn't started on a new version.
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